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How Did They Do Their Makeup In 16th Century Venice

Written By Friday, May 20, 2022 Add Comment Edit

Venetian ceruse, as well known as blanc de ceruse de Venise [2] and Spirits of Saturn,[iii] was a 16th-century cosmetic used as a peel whitener. It was in groovy demand and considered the best available at the fourth dimension, supposedly containing the all-time quality white lead sourced from Venice. It is similar to the regular ceruse, although information technology was marketed equally better, more sectional and more expensive than the regular ceruse variant.[iv] The regular ceruse white pigment is a basic atomic number 82 carbonate of chemical formula 2 PbCO
3 ·Pb(OH)
2 while the mineral cerussite is a elementary carbonate of lead (PbCO
3 ).

A recipe from 1688 described the cosmetic as a mixture of water, vinegar, and lead.[four] The cosmetic's use of white lead as a paint caused lead poisoning, dissentious the skin and causing hair loss. Prolonged usage was detrimental to the body, causing pb poisoning, skin damage and in some cases eventual death[one] [3].

Users [edit]

Some sources state that Elizabeth I of England used Venetian ceruse,[a] and some state that she may take used Venetian ceruse.[ane] Critics such as Anna Riehl[vi] and Kate Maltby[seven] accept argued that fiddling historical evidence exists to support the claim that Elizabeth used ceruse.

Ceruse was also blamed for the death of Maria Coventry, Countess of Coventry, aged 27, in 1760. Coventry had been a frequent user of ceruse, and is believed to have died of lead poisoning.[3] [8]

Another devout user of the cosmetic was Isabella d'Este; her appearance demonstrated how ceruse caused permanent harm and premature crumbling. In 1534, an account by Pietro Aretino described her "smeared face" as "dishonestly ugly and even more dishonestly fabricated upwardly."[nine]

Ceruse variants [edit]

Variants of ceruse differ based on their proportions of pb carbonate and white lead[x]. Some sources state that Venetian ceruse was most identical to regular ceruse, nonetheless due to its origins in Venice it was marketed as the all-time available product on the market. Other sources state that there were marked differences between variants of ceruse. In contrast to regular ceruse, Venetian ceruse was said to be made from pure white atomic number 82[ane].

Chemistry and industry [edit]

Chemic composition [edit]

The chief agile ingredient in Venetian ceruse was white pb (PbCO3·Pb(OH)2)[xi] also known every bit hydrocerrusite[12], which is a hydrate form of cerrusite[13]. Cerrusite is also known as the heavy metal, lead carbonate (PbCO3)[thirteen], which encourages pare depigmentation[14].

White lead had many qualities that made it a valuable ingredient for apply in various cosmetic products. Its opaque nature made it an ideal product for concealing imperfections on the peel'south surface. The presence of atomic number 82 compounds in Venetian ceruse allowed information technology to be dissolved in water to course a thick paste that could be easily absorbed past body through the skin[11] [15].

When mixed with vinegar, Venetian ceruse'due south white lead composition had a drying effect that would suck moisture from the face. Ceruse was also normally used medicinally by surgeons in the 16th century to dry up moist sores[8].

White lead was also used in other 16th century cosmetics, such as chroma for cheeks and every bit a lip stain, by combining cerise pigments such as vermilion or from sandalwood[11].

Manufacture [edit]

The white lead nowadays in ceruse originated from various locations around Europe, only generally from Venice and Italy. Although Italian republic had been producing ceruse since the 14th century[16], Venice was the major merchant capital during the late Centre Ages and the Renaissance. It was well known for its high-quality luxury goods available at lower prices and played a significant role in the paint trade[17]. The white lead present in ceruse was the aforementioned chemical compound used by artists to pigment on canvas[sixteen].

Side effects [edit]

The harmful pb carbonate compounds present in Venetian ceruse acquired regular users to experience lead poisoning. This included acute abdominal pain, muscle paralysis, mental confusion[one] and uncontrollable convulsions[fourteen]. Common symptoms of lead poisoning include feeling nauseous, experiencing abdominal hurting, loftier claret force per unit area and reduced fertility.[18] Long-term use of the product was detrimental to the human being body equally high amounts of lead were constantly absorbed by the pare. This acquired bug from within, such as internal organ damage and in some cases eventual death[13]. It was thought that Maria Gunning, a 17th century socialite from London, died from atomic number 82 poisoning because of her faithful use of Venetian ceruse[fifteen].

Superficial side furnishings included pilus loss, particularly at the front of the hairline. It is suspected that the hair loss experienced by many women during the 16th century gave rise to the Elizabethan dazzler ideal of possessing a high forehead. All the same, balding may too have been associated with contracting syphilis; a mutual disease during the Renaissance menstruum[viii].

Many users were aware of the agin side furnishings of ceruse, however they continued to use the production regardless[11] [nineteen]. Venetian ceruse was favoured over other powders such as starch, alabaster and crushed mother-of-pearl, due to its ease of application and ability to adhere to the skin easily[eleven]. Some sources land that the faithful utilise of ceruse was a issue of the side effects caused past its lead compounds, which could only be curtained by applying several more layers[20] of the product. The lead caused peel to mottle and peel, which left blemishes and scarring on the pare'south surface[14]. Venetian ceruse was also usually used to conceal scars left over from smallpox[xix].

It was non until the end of the 18th century that scientific studies concluded the severity of harmful health problems that lead acquired[xiv]. Small amounts of lead carbonate exposed to humans can elevate blood levels to high levels of toxicity[21] [12].

History [edit]

Historical uses of ceruse [edit]

The practice of deliberate skin lightening initially began in ancient Rome, where lead carbonate was used equally a cosmetic production to whiten the peel (Petit, 2019). Light pare was a symbol of femininity, and the beauty ideals during that fourth dimension favoured clarity of the skin. Atomic number 82 carbonate was also used in ancient Arab republic of egypt and Greece as a white cosmetic, known as cerussa [22]. In that location were likely no racial motivations for skin lightening practices during the Artifact period[xiv].

Elizabethan dazzler ideals [edit]

The ideal beauty standards during the late Heart Ages and early on Renaissance[fourteen] saw women aiming to achieve a white complexion contrasted by bright ruddy cheeks and lips. Skin lightening practices, such as the wearing of Venetian ceruse, may not accept been directly racially motivated during the Elizabethan era. Rather, the pursuit of a fair complexion was driven by its connotations with high condition and wealth[nineteen] [14]. Individuals who performed labour work outdoors in direct sunlight would often accept tanned skin, whereas those in higher positions within society were able to stay indoors.

Women who used cosmetic products, including Venetian ceruse, were viewed as promiscuous and unfaithful by many[xix] [xi]. The employ of Venetian ceruse was largely for the purpose of enhancing beauty by creating a shine, natural complexion. Yet, many non-users made commentary on its unnatural advent and condemned women for using lead-based cosmetics despite their known adverse side effects. Cosmetics were referred to as the Latin discussion "fucus" meaning "false colour"[fifteen].

Some sources state that acne, a side effect of using ceruse, was even associated with witchcraft during the 16th century[twenty].

Notes [edit]

  1. ^ "Subsequently 1558, Elizabeth I of England popularized the utilise of 2 toxins in face creams—arsenic and Venetian ceruse, a lead carbonate base dissolved in vinegar."[v]

References [edit]

  1. ^ a b c d e Thomas, L.Grand. (2020). Beneath the Surface: A Transnational History of Skin Lighteners. Theory in Forms. Duke Academy Press. p. pt26. ISBN978-i-4780-0705-0 . Retrieved 2020-07-17 .
  2. ^ Nicholas Eastaugh; Valentine Walsh; Tracey Chaplin; Ruth Siddall (2007). Pigment Compendium: A Dictionary of Historical Pigments. Burlington, MA: Elsevier Butterworth-Heinemann. p. 44. ISBN9781136373855.
  3. ^ a b c Kassia St. Clair (2016). The Hole-and-corner Lives of Color. London: John Murray. p. 45–46. ISBN9781473630819. OCLC 936144129.
  4. ^ a b Lisa Eldridge (2015). Face Paint: The Story of Makeup. Abrams. ISBN9781613128183.
  5. ^ Snodgrass, Chiliad.E. (2015). World Vesture and Manner: An Encyclopedia of History, Civilization, and Social Influence. Taylor & Francis. p. 154. ISBN978-1-317-45167-9 . Retrieved 2020-07-17 .
  6. ^ Anna Riehl (2010). The Face of Queenship: Early Mod Representations of Elizabeth I. ISBN9780230106741.
  7. ^ "Why is Elizabeth I always depicted as a grotesque?". Kate Maltby. 2015-05-25. Retrieved 2019-10-05 . Even Venetian Ceruse, the notorious stake make-up used by Elizabethan actors and never found in the inventories of the queen herself, has been shown in reconstructions to alloy lightly into the skin like a modern concealer...
  8. ^ a b c Susan Stewart (2017). Painted Faces: A Colourful History of Cosmetics. Amberley Publishing. ISBN9781445654003.
  9. ^ Jill Condra (2008). The Greenwood Encyclopedia of Vesture Through Earth History. Westport, CT: Greenwood Publishing Grouping. p. 35. ISBN9780313336621.
  10. ^ de Viguerie, L.; Payard, P.A.; Portero, Due east.; Walter, P.; Cotte, M. (2016). "The drying of linseed oil investigated past Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy: Historical recipes and influence of lead compounds". Progress in Organic Coatings. 93: 46–60. doi:10.1016/j.porgcoat.2015.12.010. ISSN 0300-9440.
  11. ^ a b c d e f Sammern, Romana (2015). "Red, White and Black: Colors of Beauty, Tints of Wellness and Cosmetic Materials in Early Modern English Art Writing". Early Scientific discipline and Medicine. xx (4–six): 397–427. doi:10.1163/15733823-02046p05. ISSN 1383-7427. PMID 26856049.
  12. ^ a b Guidotti, Tee L. (2020-10-27). The Handbook of Occupational and Ecology Medicine: Principles, Practise, Populations, and Problem-Solving, second Edition [ii volumes]. ABC-CLIO. ISBN978-one-4408-6527-5.
  13. ^ a b c Pfaff, Gerhard (2017). Inorganic Pigments. Walter de Gruyter GmbH & Co KG. ISBN978-iii-11-048451-ix.
  14. ^ a b c d e f g Petit, Antoine (2019). "Skin lightening and its motives: A historical overview". Annales de dermatologie et de venereologie. 146 (5): 399–409. doi:x.1016/j.annder.2019.04.017. PMID 31088697. S2CID 155088444 – via Elsevier Science Directly.
  15. ^ a b c Romm, Sharon (1989). "The changing face up of beauty". Aesthetic Plastic Surgery. 13 (2): 91–98. doi:10.1007/bf01571475. ISSN 0364-216X. PMID 2662717. S2CID 2989869.
  16. ^ a b Berrie, B; Matthew, L (2011). "Lead white from Venice: a whiter shade of stake". Studying Old Master Paintings: Engineering science and Practice: 295–301.
  17. ^ Matthew, L.C. (2002). "Vendecolori a Venezia': The Reconstruction of a Profession". The Burlington Magazine. 114(1196) (1196): 680–686. JSTOR 3100528.
  18. ^ "Lead: Health Problems Caused by Atomic number 82 | NIOSH | CDC". world wide web.cdc.gov. 2021-12-09. Retrieved 2022-04-05 .
  19. ^ a b c d Sommerlad, M. (2022). "Pare lightening: causes and complications". Clinical and Experimental Dermatology. 47 (2): 264–270. doi:10.1111/ced.14972. ISSN 0307-6938. PMID 34637158. S2CID 238636351.
  20. ^ a b Tabasum, Humyra; Ahmad, Tanzeel; Anjum, Farzana; Rehman, Hina (2013). "Dapsone in the Management of Acne Vulgaris". Journal of the Dermatology Nurses' Association. five (half-dozen): 315–319. doi:10.1097/jdn.0000000000000008. ISSN 1945-760X. S2CID 75385410.
  21. ^ Staudinger, K; Roth, Five.S. (1998). "Occupational Pb Exposure and Lead Poisoning". Journal of the American Medical Association. 125 (15): 1072. doi:ten.1001/jama.1944.02850330070033. ISSN 0002-9955.
  22. ^ Beck, Lucile; Caffy, Ingrid; Delqué-Količ, Emmanuelle; Moreau, Christophe; Dumoulin, Jean-Pascal; Perron, Marion; Guichard, Hélène; Jeammet, Violaine (2018). "Accented dating of lead carbonates in ancient cosmetics by radiocarbon". Communications Chemistry. 1 (i). doi:10.1038/s42004-018-0034-y. ISSN 2399-3669. S2CID 133959672.

Source: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Venetian_ceruse

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